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When compiling a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect well-known high-end establishments. However, situated high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a far-flung area of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish eatery, concentrating in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the capital by a influential gastronomic guide. The honour has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, referring to his family’s relentless work that led to their small place achieving such a high position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the interior remains largely unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is focused on the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender texture.

It is then thrown into a sizeable pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in bit by bit. As the meaty mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil bringing it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is soaked in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a deeper, toastier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for below £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an costly city. There is an assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is achievable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not apprentice at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its success is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s accolade is bound to have meaning beyond its own doors. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic achievement.